Global Sourcing

Surrealism 

How it changed fashion!

Surrealism became a global cultural movement after its early beginnings in France in the 1920s.

As a movement it incorporated all the visual arts including literature, film, music and fashion. The aim was to resolve the contradictions between reality and dreams.

 Simply put, by allowing the unconscious to express itself art changes our perception of reality. The resultant works can be disturbing and illogical. There are unexpected, imaginative juxtapositions and there is always an element of surprise.

How was this translated into fashion? The Surrealists, especially Salvador Dali provided a major influence to the work of Elsa Schiaparelli, an Italian fashion Designer, who was a contemporary of Coco Chanel. She has been described as one of the most prominent fashion figures between the World Wars.

Schiaparelli gave her imagination free rein and her garments are a true reflection of the ideas behind Surrealism. Her skeleton and lobster dresses are iconic pieces that have a place in fashion history. So too does her slipper hat, which in turn is cited as Karl Lagerfeld’s inspiration for his 1990 corset hat.

Since the early 20^th century Surrealism has continued to influence and inspire Fashion Designers. In the last twenty years the following notable figures have created designs that are directly linked to the Surrealist Movement. These include:

Thierry Mugler (1997 Bird dress), Victor and Rolf (2010 cut-out cheese dress in coral netting), Comme de Garcons (2009 cream netting ‘tutu’ outfit), Kenzo (2013 ubiquitous eye motif) to name just a few.

One of the most Surreal Designers of the moment is arguably Maison Martin Margiela. There is always an element of surprise in the catwalk shows. As far back as 2009 there have been touches of Surrealism incorporated within the collections. For Spring Summer 2009 the models faces were blanked making reference to the anonymity of figures in Surreal works of art. The ‘is it a wig or coat ‘from this collection recalls Schiaparelli’s monkey hair coat. 

Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring Summer 2015 show with Galliano at the helm incorporates vintage bits and pieces, much like the Surrealists use of everyday objects that are looked at in new ways. Tim Blanks in his January 12^th. review of the collection describes “an edge of the grotesque” recalling the disturbing quality of some Surrealist works.

Maison Martin Margiela spring 2015 couture

Surrealism was an explosively exciting Art Movement that filtered throughout Western Culture. I for one am thrilled that Maison Martin Margiela continues to incorporate Surrealism in their designs, because after all where would we all be if we don’t dream ?

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