Global Sourcing

Fashion Film

AW15


With any brand, visuals are a key role to promoting and sharing the brands ethos.
We decided to create a fashion film to portray our Brand, SiSi as well as having screen grabs as the images that would be used for our look book and advertisements.

As joint Creative Director, Sarah and I researched what films where already out there and what we would want to incorporate into our own. The 3 films that we felt would emphasise and encompass are brands 'look' where:

YSL – Michael Pitt by Michael van Dijk
Close ups of models face and portrait shots, we are also going to adopt the
way YSL portrayed their collection by having our garments personified by
a speaker in an erotic way, we have also chosen to have it in French as it is
the language of love and we want our clients to feel that they can love and
be loved by the garment. Also as the name translates into Spanish ‘Yes’ we
would want our marketing approach to not just be within the United Kingdom but
for a European market as well.

Marina Abromovic x Addidas for show
studio.
We want to portray this idea in our film, where parts of the set
will be in focus as well as having the overall film to be in this black
and white effect.

SAGE – In between.
With this being the main inspiration for the the fashion film, we
loved the close ups of skin , body parts and garments where the
model is almost interpretive dancing which portrays emotion,
this will be perfect to utilize this stance letting the public know
how great our brand is. We also want to look at using the same
lighting and crispness of the film as it is incredibly clean and
contemporary and has managed to steer well clear of being a
dove advert or erotic.


I organised the model, having originally cast an agency model, and in the process realised that this would not be a unique selling point to our chosen market, yet another fashion film portraying a glamours girl would not fit into our brand, we needed a woman that our market would relate to, a mother who is constantly on the move, whilst balancing a job, a child and a husband. Almost with a 'Gentlewomen' approach.

Our woman would need to portray this working lifestyle and to show that even with everything going on, that our brand and clothes can give her the relaxing escape she truly needs.

After referring this idea to the rest of the team, we went ahead for the search for our women.

So, where to find such a women? luckily, my sister fitted the role perfectly. She is strong, never gives up and is naturally beautiful. On the day,  and the running up to it, she said to me "ohh, I don't know! I'm not a model.. The rest of your group do know that I just had a child.." with this, i responded but that is why we want you, you are beautiful and natural, our market place would find you far more relatable than a otherworldly beauty, we want the natural women, warts and all. (my sister has no warts.)

Luckily, my sister is a drama teacher, so we had no worry with how she would act in front of the camera.

-

Before the shoot my Co-Creative Director and I created the set, with milk bottles, bought and painted by one of our designers. We glue gunned the bamboo panels and tied a natural yarn around the attaching points, for extra structure. (luckily it only started to fall apart when we had completed the filming, thank God.)

After meetings with the wonderful photographer/cinematographer , I was confident in that she shared the same vision that we as a team had. So with my job of overseeing and directing the film with advice and opinions from the rest of the team we managed to successfully create a mood that would be fit enough to have the brand name SiSi all over it.

As the creative Director and I, this was our main role throughout the group project, so much like with the "YSL" film we wanted to have a passage that would be read over ours. It was incredibly effective without showing any of the actual garments. No music, as it would be distracting, we wanted the audience to have their own romanticised views of the film, writing short narrative which would accompany it.

At first, we made it quite erotic, (even considering to leave university to become the next best selling soft porn authors,) who knew personifying clothes would be so salacious. Yet after the filming, we realised it was to obvious and overtly sexual. We needed a speech, that would show love and care, enticing our market into our clothes, transporting them into their own, individual bliss. Whilst trying to find a middle ground.  Steering clear of soft porn or a Dove advert.

"There is a sense of familiarity of this warm, comforting feeling surrounding me 
- The soft texture was unforgettable and there was nothing quite like it. The ripples of my skin were surrounded ever so softly by your touch. 
- I crave your touch, your comfort. -

Come to me, pressed against my skin, let me indulge myself in the beauty of you. 
- After this, you and I are both melting into one. 
- My imperfections made perfect by the drape and texture surrounding me and comforting my very soul.

Your secret is safe with me"

And so, with great pleasure, we SiSi give to you, our first Fashion Film.
Enjoy!

Global Sourcing

Shop Layout

In a presentation, the best ways to promote an idea is with imagery. If there is an actual product to show it will be easier for the audience to understand. So for us as a start up brand we wanted to portray not only our ethos but how we would envision it. 

If we were to have a store, what would it look like? having previosuly done a shop report for Cos and The Kooples we had an in-depth ideology on the importance of a good shop layout. 

I created  range of shop floor ideas from a birds eye view perspective, then choose one within our team. 

Once we had the initial layout i could get to work on constructing it. Luckily i had practice designing layouts for areas as my Father is an architect and Mother is an interior designer.  I collated the ideas the team had, with what they would want in our store. From shelving to colour palettes. Then processed all of these ideas with my father, guiding him (as i did not have a strong grasp on sketch up) with what we wanted.

We chose a mixture between natural and man made, waiting to play with the dichotomy of these. Having a focal point, would be the living wall, which would be made up of living plants to coincide with our ecological ethos in our garments. 

These Ideas are further reinforced with our choice of bamboo and ethically sourced stone and timber materials. Importantly we also looked at the  vitality of recycling in the modern world and so used old milk bottles in an innovative way for lighting.

We feel that having this shop floor visual shows our brand's image and how it could be portrayed.

Global Sourcing

Brand Name

I was interested in milk baths and their benefits on the skin, and knew that Cleopatra was an advocate of them. 

I started to research further and found two other devotees, Elizabeth I of England and Elisabeth of Bavaria. Whilst thinking about names for our company I thought of ‘Elizabeth of Luxury’ but found this too long and cumbersome, and it also stated the obvious.

Our clientele should know our products our luxury without having to state it in our name. We wanted something short and snappy so I started look into each of the women individually.  I discovered that Elisabeth of Bavaria had a nickname, Sisi, which we thought was perfect, a short but sweet name with a significant meaning behind it. 

As we are a company that would want to branch out into Europe, SiSi is ideal, as it is easily translated into different languages. 

For example, ‘si’ is ‘yes’ in Spanish. 

We want this to be a brand women will say yes to.

As a group we decided to run with SiSi and got the brand manager to create our logo, something clean and timeless but not dated. This will show of our brand image instantly as it will be the first thing the market will see.

Global Sourcing

Surrealism 

How it changed fashion!

Surrealism became a global cultural movement after its early beginnings in France in the 1920s.

As a movement it incorporated all the visual arts including literature, film, music and fashion. The aim was to resolve the contradictions between reality and dreams.

 Simply put, by allowing the unconscious to express itself art changes our perception of reality. The resultant works can be disturbing and illogical. There are unexpected, imaginative juxtapositions and there is always an element of surprise.

How was this translated into fashion? The Surrealists, especially Salvador Dali provided a major influence to the work of Elsa Schiaparelli, an Italian fashion Designer, who was a contemporary of Coco Chanel. She has been described as one of the most prominent fashion figures between the World Wars.

Schiaparelli gave her imagination free rein and her garments are a true reflection of the ideas behind Surrealism. Her skeleton and lobster dresses are iconic pieces that have a place in fashion history. So too does her slipper hat, which in turn is cited as Karl Lagerfeld’s inspiration for his 1990 corset hat.

Since the early 20^th century Surrealism has continued to influence and inspire Fashion Designers. In the last twenty years the following notable figures have created designs that are directly linked to the Surrealist Movement. These include:

Thierry Mugler (1997 Bird dress), Victor and Rolf (2010 cut-out cheese dress in coral netting), Comme de Garcons (2009 cream netting ‘tutu’ outfit), Kenzo (2013 ubiquitous eye motif) to name just a few.

One of the most Surreal Designers of the moment is arguably Maison Martin Margiela. There is always an element of surprise in the catwalk shows. As far back as 2009 there have been touches of Surrealism incorporated within the collections. For Spring Summer 2009 the models faces were blanked making reference to the anonymity of figures in Surreal works of art. The ‘is it a wig or coat ‘from this collection recalls Schiaparelli’s monkey hair coat. 

Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring Summer 2015 show with Galliano at the helm incorporates vintage bits and pieces, much like the Surrealists use of everyday objects that are looked at in new ways. Tim Blanks in his January 12^th. review of the collection describes “an edge of the grotesque” recalling the disturbing quality of some Surrealist works.

Maison Martin Margiela spring 2015 couture

Surrealism was an explosively exciting Art Movement that filtered throughout Western Culture. I for one am thrilled that Maison Martin Margiela continues to incorporate Surrealism in their designs, because after all where would we all be if we don’t dream ?

-F-

Global Sourcing

15/1 - London baby! 

We had a day trip up to London to look at some USP's of brands/companies whilst looking out for shop layouts, promotion, adverts, window displays, customers and staff workers! On top of the actual garments (quality, standard of production, where it was produced etc.) to see where in the market, our brand would fit in as well as if there is an opening for it!

First it was off to Liberty's, traditionally English and after new management have propelled the once Mock Tudor building into the luxury battlefield of the 21st century, housing contemporary designers such as Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto contrasting with Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood! we found some interesting shapes, textures and layouts, yet what we all realised, there was only one small secluded section for loungewear, which was yes, beautiful but was not that contemporary in design and did not have the health benefits! 

Also, at Liberty's the rest of the group spoke to a skincare representative of Aromatherapy Associates, whose oils smelled wonderful, one especially that relaxed you and made you go to sleep. something that would be perfect if infused with one of our garments. This also gave me the idea of a scratch and sniff business card's!

Then to The Kooples, yes, because I love to shop there anyway, yet the atmosphere, the layout and the way the brands ethos is shown is so clear and contemporary which is why I wanted to show  it to the rest of the group! Plus the staff in there are always so very friendly, even in Paris and Nice they are utmost presentable, professional but by no means un-approachable. Their shop layouts utilise the space to get enough information in without feeling overcrowded and overwhelmed. The latest look book/adverts hung on the walls above the shelves, as the rails of clothes methodically progressed, from lighter wear (t-shirts etc.) to outwear jackets and suits. 

What also appealed to me with The Kooples, are there packagings, always with a dust bag, and when you buy online the receipts are kept in a black envelope with their embossed logo! something that we two could adopt, and potentially even use in store, nothing is more annoying trying to organise your receipts in your bag or to find one, so having it in a envelope would keep it from being muddled among the rest of the many, many miscellaneous receipts!

Cos was next on the list of places to see, their clean cut lines and simple silhouettes transfer to their store so effortlessly, its a shame they are always so busy, which does add to a bit of chaos, yet the clothes and decor bring you back to a sense of mellow.

As we were in the area, we decided to look at some of SoHo's fabric stores to get a feel (and some swatches) for some luxury fabrics and what we would want our garments to be made from. 

Then last on our stop was Selfridges, where we journeyed straight to the 6th floor to discover, yet again a niche in the market! only  a small select of lingerie brands where there to greet us and hardly any loungewear items! 

This trip has defiantly confirmed;

 - where we would want to be in the market

 - that the market we were trying to find would have a place

 - what aesthetic's we are really trying to portray

 - and what mood and ethos we want to promote

With this, our survey that one of the group members created will give us enough evidence, research and information to really get the ball rolling!

-F-

Global Sourcing

12/1- My co-creative director came around my house so that we could establish what fashion films are out there at the moment, and what are their USP's. We managed to look through a range from Nick Night's Show Studio and Diane Pernet's ASVOFF as well as some you tube finds, one that we extensively researched was 'Prada Therapy' with Helena Bonham Carter and Ben Kingsley .... which incorporated such a simple idea whilst combing subtle humour, is this perhaps a way we want to take our brand?  Along here are some of the notes we collated from it! 

-F-

Global Sourcing: F A T

F:         Fashion
A: Architecture
T:          Textiles

At the end of our term, we were asked to take in a large group project where we would work not only across the fashion course but with textiles and architecture. Thats a big group to work with! After being split into our groups, and given a word to work from we set off into the wide world, (poole) to find inspiration for our word, Density.
 Density: The density, or more precisely, the volumetric mass density, of a substance is its mass per unit volume. The symbol most often used for density is ρ (the lower case Greek letter rho). Mathematically, density is defined as mass divided by volume. (thanks Wikki.)After meeting by Poole harbour, and walking along the beach, we were still a little lost for a uniformed end idea. When in doubt, eat Italian. At the restaurant, we conversed, made friends and started to feel a little more confident to express our ideas. We eventually came up with the idea of using our scenery, literally as 'density'. We specified our surroundings, selecting a range of different massed objects. We would then seal it in the same plastic bottle and lay all of the objects from heaviest (concrete) to lightest (air).We each chose a bottle to fill, I chose feathers hoping to find some on the beach, or contemplating buying a cheap pillow and using the feathers from that, but ended up finding a bird carcass, feathers attached. This was a perfect bottle for me, as I do love the darker side of things, and what is darker than finding a decomposed feather ball.After each of us created our bottles and measured incredibly careful, we had to figure out how we would present this to the rest of the groups. we decided to create a shelf like structure where we could balance the bottles from the tops, giving it a clean and flush look, contrasting the contents of the bottles drastically. To add even more 'sparkle' we took my mass reel of fairy lights and packed them in the back of the structure, sealing it, so the light would shine down the bottles highlighting the contents and giving it a aesthetically pleasing glow.Accompanying this sculpture, we created a film to accompany, even further our idea of density. Shooting footage of the range of dense objects that was in poole. A fashion student, an Architecture student and I went to do the film as we felt it would be more beneficial to learn about creating a film than building the sculpture itself. I learnt a lot about filming with this exercise and gained a stronger understanding about using Premiere Pro.

In the Film, after creating a black and white effect, as we felt it would be clearer to the audience by showing a simple colour spectrum rather than having natural and vivid colour way.

The finishing touch, we choose to incorporate a deep monotone sound and pitch which would make the viewer feel uncomfortable. To be in a dense situation, we thought,it would be frustrating, annoying and constant. Having the same pitch throughout the video hopefully will make the viewer feel under pressure and compact.

After this short weeks project, I have gained a lot of information and thought it was incredibly fun working with such a range of students. It was also, a perfect end to the last term before Christmas!

LCM: La Corde D'or SS15

La Corde D’or SS15 opened the show with a beautiful structured jacket. Playing with the idea of symmetry and asymmetry, bringing together two cultures, one would not normally combine. Their design was clear, Chinese influenced detailing merged with English gentry tailoring. Incorporating the modern man in a suave and travelled lifestyle.

     

Taking colour inspiration from the Aegean sea, their tonal shades of blues where enriching across the monochrome collection. The take on blending these inspirations have created a deep and meaningful range of garments, from the reversed seam bomber jackets to the brick wall layered like print

     

Beautifully embroidered flowers in gold, shine against the stark hues. Tailored overcoats with laced panels draw the viewer in to a mystical world whilst retaining a noble British outlook. Skirts and shorts were crisp, yet giving incredible movement that touches on androgyny, though still making the wearer indefinitely masculine.

This collection is for the deeper soul, an artist, wanting to escape the boundaries of the normal, whilst retaining immaculate poise and gentry elegance.

 -F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson |Fashion Week Press

Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine 

LCM: Jermyn St SS15

In Fortnum and Mason, we were greeted to an immaculate and polished presentation covering Jermyn St in ss15. Whilst I thought that Jermyn Street was famous for its shirt makers I was pleasantly surprised at what an array of different men’s fashion stores there were. Having a range of quaint and traditionally English stores along this street is what makes it so special and quintessentially British.

Videos were played on the walls, depicting a range of demonstrations; from how to create the perfect pocket square to hats and hat etiquette. Christopher Mundy from Budd shirt makers showed us how to create different pocket squares, how to wear them and most importantly when to wear them. It is difficult to believe that so many beautiful arrangements could be formed from a simple scarf.

      

Jermyn St, has changed my outlook on the presentation of yourself and ways to uphold appearance. Learning from Simon Maloney about shirt collars may seem meticulous but it is upholding (all of these stores and speakers are) a tradition in our history that all gentlemen should know. The respect that one can demand on any occasion can only go so far if you wear a simple summer lounge shirt to a formal ‘black tie’ dinner. Whether prom, office, wedding or personal, Jermyn St will advise you.

Jermyn St’s passion is clear, seeing the amount of confidence and excitement that they have, towards each store’s offering is reassuring. Reflecting their values so well, this enables you (and your inner yuppie) to feel confidence in expert and caring hands. Jermyn St, will make you so dapper, you will be transformed into a true English Gent

-F-

Words:Frederick Olafsson |Fashion Week Press

Images: Katherine Thomson |Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Katie Eary SS15

Fear and loathing sprigs to mind when watching Katie Eary’s SS15 collection, The acidic seventies colours melting into one can only remind one of the ether trip that Hunter S. Thompson takes in the classic film. The prints are reminiscent of the garish carpets found in many a casino in deepest southern America but making it oh so appealing with purple cacti and illustrations of dissected fish, drawing in the viewers eye rather than repelling it.

Katie Eary created a seventies dream cowboy, with a touch of madness, her signature orange hues spewed like lava on to the catwalk, there was nothing cold about this show. Skintight polo necks with silk shirts paired with patchwork denim skinny jeans modified the ensembles, looking at the old to the new and back again, was what made this show great, so reminiscent yet totally innovative and exciting.

Greatly over sized Scalves resembling cowboy balaclavas finished with pale gold/nude tassels and purple suede jackets where key items, perfect for your wild west adventure (vegas). Fun is clear to follow in this cowboys life, never a dull moment, to weird to live, to rare to die.

Katie is sure to bring out the woody in all of us.

-F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson |Fashion Week Press
Images: Zoe Lamb |Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Casely Hayford SS15

Taking ‘smart casual’ to a new meaning would be hard, yet Casely Hayford’s SS15 collection does just that. With rock music playing, models walked down the catwalk in 90’s skater inspired silhouettes with a twist on the print, pinstripe. Pinstripe with zip detailing gave the overall collection a sculptural flow to such basic shapes. Richard Ashcroft was a clear inspiration with pure 90’s attitude flowing onto the runway.

Incredibly loose-fitting yet structured, giving the proportions of the models a view of laid back coolness. Oversized t-shirts, with equally long trench coats without collars played with this idea of deconstructing and reconstructing ‘smart’ in an urban, contemporary way.

Though the majority was monochrome, flashes of blues, greens and purples were shown as controlled, squared dyed t-shirts giving a peacock vibe. What stood out the most was the play of fabrics especially the gold collarless, single buttoned blazer. Instantly making the wearer look a million bucks, without any attempt at trying.

Intriguing and shapely, this collection took simple forms and shapes and transported them to a different level playing with the juxtaposition of structure and colour. For the guy who wants to look effortlessly cool in SS15 this is obviously the collection for them.

 

 -F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Rosemary Pitts | Fashion Week Photogrpaher

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Duchamp SS15

In honesty, I had my doubts, I am not conventionally a suit man, and I find a lot of suits and tailoring quite dull and ‘dad’ like. Although not Duchamp SS15. Their use of pastels with paisley scarves (finished by a vivid pink tassels) and bold blues and purples are anything but boring. Slim fit suits of impeccable tailoring gave an air of decadence, perfect for the summer nights and the young British gentleman.

Though still timeless, this collection is modern and contemporary.  The young gentleman has clearly been taken into consideration, making the wearer instantly sophisticated, suave and yet daring. Playing with prints and textures you just want to touch make this collection magical, instantly transporting you to the Riviera.

Though three different inspirations came to the front of Gianni Colarossi’s SS15 collection, all blend beautifully together. Whether you choose ‘Elegant English Gentry’,  ‘Contemporary Riviera’ or ‘Summer Eveningwear’ Duchamp have you covered in the most luxurious and sharp tailoring, being incredibly easy to wear whilst looking anything but shabby.

Duchamp is holding high in the competition of suits of classic elegance with a nod to the eccentrics. If you want to make heads turn, a suit from here is a must.

 

-F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Evie Parazite | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: John Smedley SS15

Tequila sunrise and purple sunsets. John Smedley’s SS15 collection, Sea Fever is a revival of the nautical and breathes fresh life into Breton stripes and cotton classics.

With an array of seascape colours, there is a shade which will match any seaside view, from zesty yellows and limes to navy blue and turquoise. With a new micro textured finish, this collection is the perfect balance between soft and gritty, just like a beach. Dip dyed effects on tops that blend beautifully, create hypnotic and eye catching designs that revive the classic garments and transport them to the summer of 2015. Easy to wear, whilst looking incredibly comfortable, beach and sea side luxury in such simple garments.

Greek meanders depicting gentle, lapping waves give an extra touch and add detail to the colour blocked tops. Poseidon would be proud.

Grandad jumpers with a fisherman net inspired weave in bold reds and contrasting greys make for a perfect summer evening jumper, no need to be cold by the beach at night time in a boring hoodie.

In all, John Smedley’s SS15 collection is the pure essence of the seaside, come rain or shine, night and day.

   

-F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Zoe Lamb | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine