LCM: La Corde D'or SS15

La Corde D’or SS15 opened the show with a beautiful structured jacket. Playing with the idea of symmetry and asymmetry, bringing together two cultures, one would not normally combine. Their design was clear, Chinese influenced detailing merged with English gentry tailoring. Incorporating the modern man in a suave and travelled lifestyle.

     

Taking colour inspiration from the Aegean sea, their tonal shades of blues where enriching across the monochrome collection. The take on blending these inspirations have created a deep and meaningful range of garments, from the reversed seam bomber jackets to the brick wall layered like print

     

Beautifully embroidered flowers in gold, shine against the stark hues. Tailored overcoats with laced panels draw the viewer in to a mystical world whilst retaining a noble British outlook. Skirts and shorts were crisp, yet giving incredible movement that touches on androgyny, though still making the wearer indefinitely masculine.

This collection is for the deeper soul, an artist, wanting to escape the boundaries of the normal, whilst retaining immaculate poise and gentry elegance.

 -F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson |Fashion Week Press

Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine 

LCM: Jermyn St SS15

In Fortnum and Mason, we were greeted to an immaculate and polished presentation covering Jermyn St in ss15. Whilst I thought that Jermyn Street was famous for its shirt makers I was pleasantly surprised at what an array of different men’s fashion stores there were. Having a range of quaint and traditionally English stores along this street is what makes it so special and quintessentially British.

Videos were played on the walls, depicting a range of demonstrations; from how to create the perfect pocket square to hats and hat etiquette. Christopher Mundy from Budd shirt makers showed us how to create different pocket squares, how to wear them and most importantly when to wear them. It is difficult to believe that so many beautiful arrangements could be formed from a simple scarf.

      

Jermyn St, has changed my outlook on the presentation of yourself and ways to uphold appearance. Learning from Simon Maloney about shirt collars may seem meticulous but it is upholding (all of these stores and speakers are) a tradition in our history that all gentlemen should know. The respect that one can demand on any occasion can only go so far if you wear a simple summer lounge shirt to a formal ‘black tie’ dinner. Whether prom, office, wedding or personal, Jermyn St will advise you.

Jermyn St’s passion is clear, seeing the amount of confidence and excitement that they have, towards each store’s offering is reassuring. Reflecting their values so well, this enables you (and your inner yuppie) to feel confidence in expert and caring hands. Jermyn St, will make you so dapper, you will be transformed into a true English Gent

-F-

Words:Frederick Olafsson |Fashion Week Press

Images: Katherine Thomson |Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Katie Eary SS15

Fear and loathing sprigs to mind when watching Katie Eary’s SS15 collection, The acidic seventies colours melting into one can only remind one of the ether trip that Hunter S. Thompson takes in the classic film. The prints are reminiscent of the garish carpets found in many a casino in deepest southern America but making it oh so appealing with purple cacti and illustrations of dissected fish, drawing in the viewers eye rather than repelling it.

Katie Eary created a seventies dream cowboy, with a touch of madness, her signature orange hues spewed like lava on to the catwalk, there was nothing cold about this show. Skintight polo necks with silk shirts paired with patchwork denim skinny jeans modified the ensembles, looking at the old to the new and back again, was what made this show great, so reminiscent yet totally innovative and exciting.

Greatly over sized Scalves resembling cowboy balaclavas finished with pale gold/nude tassels and purple suede jackets where key items, perfect for your wild west adventure (vegas). Fun is clear to follow in this cowboys life, never a dull moment, to weird to live, to rare to die.

Katie is sure to bring out the woody in all of us.

-F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson |Fashion Week Press
Images: Zoe Lamb |Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Casely Hayford SS15

Taking ‘smart casual’ to a new meaning would be hard, yet Casely Hayford’s SS15 collection does just that. With rock music playing, models walked down the catwalk in 90’s skater inspired silhouettes with a twist on the print, pinstripe. Pinstripe with zip detailing gave the overall collection a sculptural flow to such basic shapes. Richard Ashcroft was a clear inspiration with pure 90’s attitude flowing onto the runway.

Incredibly loose-fitting yet structured, giving the proportions of the models a view of laid back coolness. Oversized t-shirts, with equally long trench coats without collars played with this idea of deconstructing and reconstructing ‘smart’ in an urban, contemporary way.

Though the majority was monochrome, flashes of blues, greens and purples were shown as controlled, squared dyed t-shirts giving a peacock vibe. What stood out the most was the play of fabrics especially the gold collarless, single buttoned blazer. Instantly making the wearer look a million bucks, without any attempt at trying.

Intriguing and shapely, this collection took simple forms and shapes and transported them to a different level playing with the juxtaposition of structure and colour. For the guy who wants to look effortlessly cool in SS15 this is obviously the collection for them.

 

 -F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Rosemary Pitts | Fashion Week Photogrpaher

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Duchamp SS15

In honesty, I had my doubts, I am not conventionally a suit man, and I find a lot of suits and tailoring quite dull and ‘dad’ like. Although not Duchamp SS15. Their use of pastels with paisley scarves (finished by a vivid pink tassels) and bold blues and purples are anything but boring. Slim fit suits of impeccable tailoring gave an air of decadence, perfect for the summer nights and the young British gentleman.

Though still timeless, this collection is modern and contemporary.  The young gentleman has clearly been taken into consideration, making the wearer instantly sophisticated, suave and yet daring. Playing with prints and textures you just want to touch make this collection magical, instantly transporting you to the Riviera.

Though three different inspirations came to the front of Gianni Colarossi’s SS15 collection, all blend beautifully together. Whether you choose ‘Elegant English Gentry’,  ‘Contemporary Riviera’ or ‘Summer Eveningwear’ Duchamp have you covered in the most luxurious and sharp tailoring, being incredibly easy to wear whilst looking anything but shabby.

Duchamp is holding high in the competition of suits of classic elegance with a nod to the eccentrics. If you want to make heads turn, a suit from here is a must.

 

-F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Evie Parazite | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: John Smedley SS15

Tequila sunrise and purple sunsets. John Smedley’s SS15 collection, Sea Fever is a revival of the nautical and breathes fresh life into Breton stripes and cotton classics.

With an array of seascape colours, there is a shade which will match any seaside view, from zesty yellows and limes to navy blue and turquoise. With a new micro textured finish, this collection is the perfect balance between soft and gritty, just like a beach. Dip dyed effects on tops that blend beautifully, create hypnotic and eye catching designs that revive the classic garments and transport them to the summer of 2015. Easy to wear, whilst looking incredibly comfortable, beach and sea side luxury in such simple garments.

Greek meanders depicting gentle, lapping waves give an extra touch and add detail to the colour blocked tops. Poseidon would be proud.

Grandad jumpers with a fisherman net inspired weave in bold reds and contrasting greys make for a perfect summer evening jumper, no need to be cold by the beach at night time in a boring hoodie.

In all, John Smedley’s SS15 collection is the pure essence of the seaside, come rain or shine, night and day.

   

-F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Zoe Lamb | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Joseph Turvey SS15

What can I say?  Joseph Turvey has done it again. His incredibly modern take on the classic street style silhouette has been revamped, and his play on masculinity and feminity is strong. Tank is the name of his SS15 collection and it is clear how his inspiration, collection name and final garments link. Tank of a man, fish live in tanks.

              

Sheer pearlescent fabrics cling to the models with layered sports shorts in feminine materials, but making them look so strong. Japanese inspired koi fish swirl on jackets and shirts in bright, pink watercolour hues. This is a spiritual take on the metamorphism of man and fish and how they become one in a most magnificent illustration and collection.

                          

Sequined t-shirts also emphasise the scales of a fish, but on a mans body it gives a beautiful movement and fluidity. ‘Puff binded’ jackets and shorts, in matching hues of salmon pinks and orange in a triangle shape pattern create an illusion of scales, blurring into one, making the wearer into a modern, graphic and contemporary urban fish. 

-F-

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Katherine Thomson | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Richard Nicholl SS15

As the soft, light music starts, we are instantly captivated and drawn into Richard Nicholl's playful world. White,  clean and structured silhouettes hang from the models bodies with metallic details running throughout, growing into a fully white, paper like raincoat. Female models, a first for LCM, walked the runway in similar attire, with metallic duster coats and light blue panelled denim skirts (shorts and trousers for the guys). The music changes into pounding drums, and blues and reds start to emerge giving a thoroughly nautical theme. Blue and white summer suit jackets are prominent, giving the collection a different take. Imagine a yacht docked in Cancun in mid summer.

Floral prints in red and neon yellow add to the playfulness of the collection and the sharp tailoring of the suit jackets hone in on Nicholl's elegant style. The formality of the collection is offset by the bright summery tone. Another eye catching factor was the abundance of gingham check, a print yet to be mainstay in menswear, and most importantly the jumpsuit, crisp and sharp, is given new life, no longer just for the painters.

The music finishes with Talking Heads' Road To Nowhere, a punchy track that merges perfectly as the happy melody of it is portrayed through the clothes. This collection is made for having fun in the sun, with each individual piece looking as good alone as they would together.

-F-

  

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Katherine Thomson | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

LCM: Kent and Curwen SS15

Eighties bad boy, to say the least. With Franz Ferdinand blaring out of the speakers, a parade of models walked down the catwalk with dark hues running throughout, along with hints of orange, white and turquoise.

Monochrome geometric and animal prints break up the dark bad boy image and lets the wearer have some fun. The otherwise safe image of traditional V-neck jumpers and fitted suits is abolished with wild patterns and lots of attitude. Short leather trench coats with padded shoulders add volume to the classic ‘V shape’ of the man with a belt to cinch in the waist. This is for a confident guy, a dominant front man. 

Heeled printed Chelsea boots give a rock and roll image whilst the leather driving gloves contrast yet compliment the fast lifestyle this man is living.

This incredibly polished bad boy that Kent and Curwen have created is easily wearable and yet incredibly fun, smart casual with a lot of rebellion make for the perfect summer look of 2015, with skinny jeans, a leather jacket and matching printed accessories. You’ll finally be the front man of your girlfriends dreams.

-F-

   

Words: Frederick Olafsson | Fashion Week Press

Images: Katherine Thomson | Fashion Week Photographer

For Who's Jack Magazine

Bobby Abley aw14

LCM: AW14

Bobby Abley: MAN

Catwalk Review

Topman and Fashion East’s MAN, showcases emerging British menswear talent. Having shown previously, Abley’s AW14 is his second catwalk show with this establishment.

Eerie. Uncomfortable yet enticing. Subverting Disney is a trend done before yet Abley’s take is not discriminating the evil of Disney, showing them where they should stand, in the limelight. 

The overall color palette for this collection was black and grey with hints of pink to let out the inner dark prince. Pink is often associated with Disney, but Abley has subverted the meaning of it by incorporating the slogan ‘Brains’. A print of twisting, intestine like pattern, represents grey matter and accentuates the gruesome in a cartooned manner. Walt would be proud. 

Maleficent also plays quite a key roll with inspiration, with baseball caps abstracted from her horns and prints bearing her familiar, Crow, depicted in a menacing caw like portrait, and repeated use of him swooping through barbed wire. Not even barbed wire can contain such chaos.

High neck lines with extreme draping from the scarves and hoodie necks were predominant, giving an elevated mysterious appearance, which created an imposing presence. Sharp symmetry created almost an army, or ‘Family’ like grouping which married each individual garment together in a twisted tale. Utilitarian backpacks in pink added softer notes to the obviously dark collection.

The pounding music, with a deranged theme song of Mickey Mouse, which merges into MIA’s Meds and Feds, emphasizes the 90’s American sport style. The heavy beat, although complimenting the overall aesthetic, contrasts the use of fabrics, especially those of the floating, sheer culottes and the cotton candy like sweat shirts. 

This style, even though more elaborate for the norm, would make even the kindest of souls look twice, this is for the children who grew up that preferred the Disney villains and for the adults who really understood the meaning of them.

-F-